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| SWEET AND SOUR CATFISH:
CHINESE RESTAURANT PROJECT SOUTH (WORKING TITLE) |

Indigo Som, “Golden China, Red Wing, Minnesota,” 34” x 34” iris
printm 2003
Project
Title: Sweet and Sour Catfish: Chinese
Restaurant Project South (working title)
Recipient Organization: Chinese
Historical Society of America
Lead
Artist: Indigo Som
Genre and Date Awarded: Visual
Arts, June 2004
To be Presented: February-March,
2005
Indigo Som and the Chinese
Historical Society will collaborate to create and exhibit “Sweet & Sour
Catfish: Chinese Restaurant Project South”, new work
about Chinese restaurants in the American South. The collaboration
will include interviews, archival and historical research, and
a weblog chronicling Som’s
travels as she photographs and records sound in Chinese restaurants
throughout the South. The resulting artwork will be exhibited at
the Chinese Historical Society of America, with an accompanying
exhibition catalog
Sweet & Sour Catfish is an important installment
of Indigo Som’s broader Chinese Restaurant Project—a
long-term, multifaceted investigation of the relationships between
Chinese restaurants and American culture and identity. The project
hopes to stimulate critical recognition of the Chinese restaurant
as an archetypal icon of American experience by posing questions
about the place of Chinese restaurants in the foodscape and imagination
of America. Som notes that Chinese restaurants are the most pervasively
visible manifestation of Chinese American presence in the United
States. For many Americans of non-Chinese descent, the restaurants
provide the main point of contact with Chinese culture and people.
Som is particularly fascinated by the consistent presence of Chinese
restaurants in places otherwise notable for the apparent absence
of anything—or anybody—else Chinese; these isolated
restaurants have an emotional as well as conceptual resonance for
the artist, who relates them to her experience of growing up Chinese
American in a predominately white community. “Sweet and
Sour Catfish” focuses on Mississippi and Alabama, which
are 0.1% Chinese American. The project roadtrip will also encompass
small parts of Louisiana, Arkansas, and Tennessee, which also have
very low Chinese American populations. On previous roadtrips, Som
has photographed Chinese restaurants in Wyoming (2002) and in Minnesota
and Wisconsin (2003). She exhibited her Chinese restaurant photographs
from these trips in October 2003 at Mills College Art Museum in
Oakland.
Using the idiosyncratic $20 plastic Holga camera, Som photographs
the restaurants in a simple, direct manner and enlarges them as
34” square Iris prints so that they physically command attention
as windows onto their landscapes. In the course of her earlier
research, Som became inspired by the restaurants’ evocative
sounds—from the clatter and sizzle of woks and silverware
to the infinite variations of Chinese-accented English spoken by
immigrant restaurant workers, and the equally interesting voices
of local-born workers and customers alike. Som will gather sound
during her travels in the South and create new work incorporating
her recordings, experimenting in this medium for the first time.
This project draws together several recurring themes from Som’s
past work. Perhaps the most consistent thread throughout her work
has been her quest to make the mundane visible, to call attention
to the unquestioned details of daily life, especially through the
concept of many small, repetitive actions or events accumulating
into a significant presence or transformation—as in her installations
with common office paper or salt. Som’s interrogation of
American identity, especially in terms of gender and ethnicity,
is exemplified by her work deconstructing “wholesome, all-American” blue
and white gingham fabric. Most recently she has explored language,
education and American pop culture in her grammatical diagrams
of pop lyrics. A constant and sensitive attention to place, landscape
and architecture has also emerged as a throughline in Som’s
installations. In her current work with Chinese restaurants, all
of these ongoing themes resonate and interact with each other in
new ways.
Founded in 1963, the Chinese Historical Society of America is
a nonprofit organization dedicated to the preservation and presentation
of the history of the Chinese in the United States. The Society
has hosted exhibitions, lectures, workshops, field trips, and special
events that promote the legacy of Chinese in America.
In this collaboration, the Society will make use of its network
of contacts within Chinese American communities to facilitate the
artist’s work in the South, and its staff historians will
guide project research, and provide helpful material from its archival
collections. The geographic focus of the project will offer the
Society the opportunity to look at a part of Chinese America that
it has not focused on in previous exhibits.
Indigo Som is a visual artist and writer based in the San Francisco
Bay Area. Widely exhibited in group and solo shows at venues such
as Mills College Art Museum, Islip Art Museum, and the New York
Public Library, Som’s artwork has been collected by the Museum
of Modern Art and The Getty Center, among other institutions and
collectors internationally and throughout the U.S. She has been
awarded residency grants from the Anderson Center, Yaddo, the Millay
Colony for the Arts, Women’s Studio Workshop, and Centrum.
Her work has received critical attention in such publications as The
New York Times, Sculpture, New Art Examiner,
and Art Papers. Her own writing has been published in
numerous journals and anthologies, including Bamboo Ridge, stretcher.org, Asian
Pacific American Journal, and Short Fuse: The Global Anthology
of New Fusion Poetry. More information is available on her
website at www.indigosom.com

Indigo Som, untitled, site-specific installation, Prince Street living room (wood
paneled room with hardwood floors, peeled latex housepaint, used facial tissue,
2000
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